Inganda zerekana imideli zimaze igihe kinini ziterwa no guhanga udushya no gushimisha ubwiza, nyamara inyuma ya bimwe mubicuruzwa byiza cyane, amarorerwa yihishe akomeje. Uruhu, ubwoya, nibindi bikoresho bikomoka ku nyamaswa bikoreshwa mu myambaro n'ibikoresho ntibigira ingaruka mbi ku bidukikije gusa ahubwo binagira ubugome bukabije ku nyamaswa. Iyi ngingo iracengera mubugome bucece burangwa no gukora iyi myenda, isuzuma inzira zirimo n'ingaruka zabyo ku nyamaswa, ibidukikije, ndetse n’umuguzi.
Uruhu:
Uruhu ni kimwe mu bikoresho bya kera kandi bikoreshwa cyane mu bikomoka ku nyamaswa mu nganda zerekana imideli. Kugira ngo habeho uruhu, inyamaswa nk'inka, ihene, n'ingurube zifatwa nabi. Akenshi, izo nyamaswa zororerwa ahantu hafunzwe, zikamburwa imyitwarire karemano, kandi zigapfa. Igikorwa cyo gutwika uruhu kirimo kandi imiti yangiza, yangiza ibidukikije nubuzima. Byongeye kandi, ubworozi bujyanye n’umusaruro w’uruhu bugira uruhare runini mu gutema amashyamba, ibyuka bihumanya ikirere, n’ibindi byangiza ibidukikije.Ubwoya:
Ubwoya nubundi imyenda ikomoka ku nyamaswa ikomoka cyane cyane ku ntama. Mugihe ubwoya bushobora gusa nkibikoresho bishobora kuvugururwa, ukuri kurababaje cyane. Intama zororerwa mu gukora ubwoya akenshi zihura n’ibihe bibi, harimo n’imikorere ibabaza nka nyumbu, aho uduce duto tw’uruhu twaciwe mu mugongo kugira ngo hatabaho kuguruka. Uburyo bwo kogosha ubwabwo burashobora gutera impagarara no gukomeretsa inyamaswa. Byongeye kandi, inganda zubwoya zigira uruhare runini mu kwangiza ibidukikije, kubera ko ubworozi bwintama busaba ubutaka n’amazi menshi.Silk:
Nubwo bitakunze kuganirwaho, silik nubundi imyenda ikomoka ku nyamaswa, cyane cyane inzoka. Igikorwa cyo gusarura silik kirimo guteka inyo nzima muri coco zabo kugirango zikuremo fibre, itera imibabaro myinshi. Nubwo ari umwenda w'akataraboneka, umusaruro w'ubudodo utera impungenge zikomeye z'imyitwarire, cyane cyane bitewe n'ubugome bugira mu gusarura.Ibindi bikoresho bikomoka ku nyamaswa:
Hanze y'uruhu, ubwoya, na silik, hari indi myenda iva mu nyamaswa, nka alpaca, cashmere, n'amababa yo hepfo. Ibi bikoresho akenshi bizana impungenge zisa. Kurugero, umusaruro wa cashmere urimo guhinga cyane ihene, biganisha ku kwangiza ibidukikije no gukoresha inyamaswa. Amababa yo hepfo, akunze gukoreshwa mu ikoti no kuryama, ubusanzwe akurwa mu njangwe na za gasegereti, rimwe na rimwe akiri muzima, bigatera ububabare n’akababaro gakomeye.
Uburyo Inyamaswa zikoreshwa mu myambaro ziricwa
Umubare munini wamiliyaridi yinyamanswa zicwa kubera uruhu, ubwoya, amababa, cyangwa ubwoya bwazo bihanganira amahano yo guhinga uruganda. Izi nyamaswa zikunze gufatwa nkibicuruzwa gusa, zambuwe agaciro kavukire nkibiremwa bifite imyumvire. Ibiremwa byiyunvikana bigarukira gusa kubantu benshi, ahantu h'umwanda, aho babuze ndetse nibyiza byibanze. Kubura ibidukikije karemano bibasiga mubitekerezo no mumubiri, akenshi barwara imirire mibi, indwara, nibikomere. Izi nyamaswa ntizifite umwanya wo kwimuka, nta mahirwe yo kwerekana imyitwarire karemano, kandi ibyo bakeneye byibanze mu gusabana cyangwa gutungwa birengagijwe rwose. Mu bihe nk'ibi, buri munsi ni intambara yo kubaho, kuko bakorerwa uburangare no gufatwa nabi.
Inyamaswa zihanganira ihohoterwa rikorerwa abakozi, zishobora gukemurwa, gukubita, gukubita, ndetse no kuzirengagiza kugeza gupfa. Yaba uburyo bwubugome bwo kubaga mu nganda zubwoya cyangwa inzira ibabaza yo uruhu no gusarura ubwoya, ubuzima bwinyamaswa bwuzuye ubugome budasanzwe. Rimwe na rimwe, inyamaswa zicwa muburyo bugamije kugabanya ibiciro, ntabwo zibabaye. Kurugero, uburyo bumwe bwo kubaga burimo ububabare bukabije, nko gutobora umuhogo utabanje gutangaza, akenshi bigatuma inyamaswa zimenya mugihe cya nyuma. Ubwoba bw’inyamaswa n’akababaro birashoboka cyane kuko bajyanywe mu ibagiro, aho bahura n’akaga gakomeye.
Mu nganda zubwoya, inyamaswa nka minks, imbwebwe, ninkwavu akenshi zifungirwa mu kato gato, zidashobora kugenda cyangwa ngo zihindukire. Utuzu twashyizwe kumurongo kandi dushobora gusigara mubihe bidahwitse, bidafite isuku. Igihe nikigera cyo kubica, hakoreshwa uburyo nka gaze, amashanyarazi, ndetse no kumena amajosi - akenshi ni ubumuntu kandi utitaye kumibereho yinyamaswa. Inzira irihuta ku nganda, ariko iteye ubwoba ku nyamaswa zirimo.
Uruhu, narwo, ruza ku giciro kirenze kure iyicwa ryambere ryinyamaswa kugirango zihishe. Inka zikoreshwa cyane cyane mu gukora uruhu, akenshi ntizifatwa neza kurusha iz'ubwoya bw'ubwoya. Ubuzima bwabo bumara mumirima yinganda aho bakorerwa ihohoterwa ryumubiri, kutitaweho neza, no gufungwa bikabije. Bimaze kubagwa, uruhu rwabo rwambuwe kugira ngo rutunganyirizwe mu bicuruzwa by’uruhu, inzira ikunze kuba irimo imiti y’ubumara yangiza ibidukikije ndetse n’abakozi babigizemo uruhare.
Ibintu byubwoya nimpu bikunze kwandikwa nkana kugirango bayobye abaguzi. Ibi byiganje cyane cyane mubihugu aho amategeko agenga imibereho y’inyamaswa usanga atabaho, kandi imyitozo ntigengwa. Bamwe mu bakora ibicuruzwa batiyubashye bazwiho kwica imbwa ninjangwe kubera ubwoya cyangwa uruhu rwabo, cyane cyane mu turere dufite kubahiriza amategeko arengera inyamaswa. Ibi byatumye habaho ibintu bitangaje by’inyamaswa zo mu rugo, harimo amatungo akunda, kubagwa ndetse nimpu zabo zikagurishwa nkibintu byerekana imideli. Ubucuruzi bwubwoya nimpu burahishwa, bigatuma abaguzi batazi inkomoko nyayo yimyenda yabo nibikoresho byabo.
Muri ibi bihe, iyo wambaye imyenda ikozwe mu nyamaswa, akenshi nta buryo bworoshye bwo kumenya neza uruhu urimo. Ibirango bishobora gusaba ikintu kimwe, ariko ukuri gushobora kuba gutandukanye rwose. Ukuri kugumaho ko tutitaye ku bwoko bwihariye, nta nyamaswa ihitamo kubishaka gupfa kubera imyambarire. Buri wese muribo, yaba inka, imbwebwe, cyangwa urukwavu, yahitamo kubaho mubuzima busanzwe, atarinze gukoreshwa. Imibabaro yihanganira ntabwo ari iyumubiri gusa ahubwo ni amarangamutima - inyamaswa zifite ubwoba, umubabaro, nububabare, nyamara ubuzima bwabo bwaragabanutse kugirango umuntu asohoze ibyifuzo byabantu kubintu byiza.
Ni ngombwa ko abaguzi bamenya ko igiciro nyacyo cyo kwambara ibikoresho bikomoka ku nyamaswa kirenze kure igiciro. Ni ikiguzi gipimwa mububabare, gukoreshwa, no gupfa. Mugihe imyumvire yiki kibazo igenda yiyongera, abantu benshi bahindukirira ubundi buryo, bashaka inzira zubugome kandi burambye bwubaha ibidukikije ninyamaswa ubwazo. Muguhitamo neza, turashobora gutangira kurangiza ukwezi kwimibabaro no kugabanya icyifuzo cyimyenda ikorwa kubwubuzima bwinzirakarengane.
Kwambara Imyenda y'Ibimera
Usibye guteza imibabaro n’impfu z’inyamanswa miriyari buri mwaka, gukora ibikoresho bikomoka ku nyamaswa - harimo ubwoya, ubwoya, n’uruhu - bigira uruhare runini mu kwangiza ibidukikije. Inganda z’ubworozi, zishyigikira ishyirwaho ry’ibi bikoresho, ni yo mpamvu nyamukuru itera imihindagurikire y’ikirere, iyangirika ry’ubutaka, umwanda, n’amazi yanduye. Kurera inyamaswa kuruhu, ubwoya, amababa, nibindi bice byumubiri bisaba ubutaka bwinshi, amazi, nibiryo. Bitera kandi amashyamba manini, kuko amashyamba yatunganijwe kugirango habeho kurisha ubutaka cyangwa ibihingwa byo kugaburira amatungo. Ubu buryo ntabwo bwihutisha gutakaza aho gutura ku moko atabarika ahubwo binagira uruhare mu kurekura imyuka yangiza parike nka metani, ifite ubushyuhe bwinshi cyane kuruta karuboni ya dioxyde.
Byongeye kandi, guhinga no gutunganya inyamaswa hagamijwe kwerekana imyanda byanduza inzira zacu zamazi hakoreshejwe imiti yica uburozi, imisemburo, na antibiotike. Ibyo bihumanya birashobora kwinjira mu bidukikije, bikangiza ubuzima bwo mu mazi kandi birashoboka ko byinjira mu biribwa by’abantu. Urugero, inzira yo gukora uruhu, akenshi ikubiyemo gukoresha imiti yangiza nka chromium, ishobora kwangiza ibidukikije, bikaba byangiza ubuzima bwabantu ndetse n’ibinyabuzima.
Uko ubumenyi bwibi bibazo bugenda bwiyongera, abantu benshi bahitamo kwakira imyenda y’ibikomoka ku bimera mu rwego rwo kwirinda kugira uruhare mu bugizi bwa nabi n’ibidukikije bifitanye isano n’ibikoresho bishingiye ku nyamaswa. Benshi muritwe tumenyereye imyenda isanzwe yibikomoka ku bimera nka pamba na polyester, ariko kuzamuka kwimyambarire yibikomoka ku bimera byatangije uburyo butandukanye bwo guhanga udushya kandi burambye. Mu kinyejana cya 21, inganda zerekana imideli zikomoka ku bimera ziratera imbere, zitanga uburyo bwiza kandi bwimyitwarire idashingiye ku nyamaswa cyangwa ibikorwa bibi.
Imyenda n'ibikoresho bikozwe mu mahembe, imigano, n'ibindi bikoresho bishingiye ku bimera ubu birasanzwe. Hemp, kurugero, nigiterwa gikura vuba gisaba amazi make nudukoko twica udukoko, bigatuma ibidukikije byangiza ibidukikije. Birashobora kandi kuramba bidasanzwe kandi bihindagurika, bikoreshwa mubintu byose kuva ikoti kugeza inkweto. Umugano, nawo, wabaye ibikoresho bizwi cyane mu gukora imyenda, kubera ko iramba cyane, ibinyabuzima bishobora kwangirika, kandi bisanzwe birwanya udukoko. Ibi bikoresho bitanga ihumure, kuramba, hamwe nuburanga nkibikomoka ku nyamaswa, ariko nta mbogamizi zishingiye ku myitwarire n’ibidukikije.
Usibye ibikoresho bishingiye ku bimera, habayeho kwiyongera mu iterambere ry’imyenda yubukorikori yigana ibikomoka ku nyamaswa ariko nta bugome. Uruhu rwa faux, rukozwe mubikoresho nka polyurethane (PU) cyangwa vuba aha, ubundi buryo bushingiye ku bimera nk'uruhu rw'ibihumyo cyangwa uruhu rwa pome, bitanga amahitamo atagira ubugome asa kandi yumva asa n'uruhu gakondo. Ibi bishya mu myenda y’ibikomoka ku bimera ntabwo bihindura gusa uko dutekereza ku myambarire ahubwo binasunika inganda mu bikorwa birambye.
Imyenda y'ibikomoka ku bimera nayo irenze imyenda ikubiyemo ibikoresho nk'inkweto, imifuka, umukandara, n'ingofero. Abashushanya n'ibirango bagenda batanga ubundi buryo bukozwe mubikoresho birambye kandi bitarangwamo ubugome, biha abakiriya uburyo butandukanye bwo guhitamo. Ibi bikoresho akenshi bikozwe mubikoresho bishya nka cork, inanasi yinanasi (Piñatex), hamwe na plastiki zongeye gukoreshwa, ibyo byose bitanga uburebure hamwe nuburyo budasanzwe udakoresheje inyamaswa.
Guhitamo imyenda y'ibikomoka ku bimera ntabwo ari inzira yo kurwanya ubugome bw'inyamaswa gusa ahubwo ni n'intambwe iganisha ku mibereho irambye kandi yangiza ibidukikije. Muguhitamo ibikoresho bitarimo inyamaswa, abaguzi bagabanya ibirenge bya karubone, kubungabunga amazi, no gutera inkunga inganda zishyira imbere ubuzima bwisi kuruta inyungu. Hamwe no kwiyongera kubindi bisobanuro byiza, bigezweho, kwambara imyenda yibikomoka ku bimera byahindutse uburyo bworoshye kandi bwimyitwarire kubantu bashaka kugira ingaruka nziza kubinyamaswa ndetse nibidukikije.
Nigute wafasha inyamaswa zikoreshwa mukwambara
Dore urutonde rwuburyo ushobora gufasha inyamaswa zikoreshwa mumyenda:
- Hitamo imyenda ya Vegan
Opt kumyenda ikozwe mubikoresho bishingiye ku bimera cyangwa sintetike idafite uruhare mu gukoresha inyamaswa, nk'ikimasa, ipamba, imigano, n'impu za sintetike (nka PU cyangwa ubundi buryo bushingiye ku bimera).- Shigikira Ibiranga Imyitwarire
Yunganira ibirango nabashushanya bashyira imbere ibikorwa byubugome, birambye mubikorwa byabo byimyenda, kandi biyemeje gukoresha ibikoresho bitarimo inyamaswa.- Wigishe Abandi
Gukangurira abantu kumenya imyitwarire ikikije imyenda ikomoka ku nyamaswa (nk'uruhu, ubwoya, nubwoya), kandi ushishikarize abandi guhitamo amakuru, impuhwe mugihe bagura imyenda.- Ubushakashatsi Mbere yo Kugura
Shakisha ibyemezo nka "PETA Yemewe na Vegan" cyangwa "Ubugome-Buntu" kugirango umenye neza ko imyenda cyangwa ibikoresho ugura bidafite rwose ibikomoka ku nyamaswa.- Upcycle and Recycle Imyenda
Gusubiramo cyangwa kuzamura imyenda ishaje aho kugura iyindi. Ibi bigabanya ibyifuzo byibikoresho bishya kandi bifasha kugabanya ingaruka z’ibidukikije mu nganda zerekana imideli.- Kunganira amategeko akomeye y’imibereho y’inyamaswa
Gushyigikira politiki n’amategeko arengera inyamaswa mu nganda zerekana imideli, nko kubuza ibikorwa nko gutobora mu bwoya bw’intama cyangwa kwica inyamaswa kubera ubwoya.- Irinde ubwoya, uruhu, nubwoya
Irinde kugura imyenda cyangwa ibikoresho bikozwe mu bwoya, uruhu, cyangwa ubwoya, kuko inganda akenshi zirimo ubugome bukabije n’ibidukikije.- Gutanga Imiryango iharanira uburenganzira bw’inyamanswa
Tanga umusanzu mu miryango nterankunga n’imiryango ikora mu rwego rwo kurinda inyamaswa gukoreshwa mu myambarire n’izindi nganda, nka Sosiyete Humane, PETA, cyangwa Ikigo gishinzwe imibereho myiza y’inyamaswa.- Gura Second-Hand cyangwa Vintage
Opt kumyenda ya kabiri cyangwa vintage kugirango ugabanye ibicuruzwa bishya, bikomoka ku nyamaswa. Ibi kandi bigabanya imyanda kandi ishyigikira ikoreshwa rirambye.- Shyigikira udushya mu myenda itagira inyamaswa
Shishikarizwa kandi ushyigikire ubushakashatsi ku myenda mishya itagira inyamaswa nk'uruhu rw'ibihumyo (Mylo), Piñatex (ivuye mu mitsi y'inanasi), cyangwa imyenda yahimbwe na bio, itanga ubundi buryo butagira ubugome kandi bwangiza ibidukikije.- Ba umuguzi ushishoza
Fata ibyemezo witonze kubijyanye no guhitamo imideri, wirinde kugura utabishaka no gutekereza ku ngaruka zifatika zo kugura ibicuruzwa bishingiye ku nyamaswa. Hitamo ibice bidafite igihe bikozwe kugirango bimare.Muguhitamo uburyo bwimyambarire idafite inyamanswa kandi irambye, turashobora kugabanya gukenera imyenda ikoresha inyamaswa, kubarinda imibabaro no kugabanya ingaruka zibidukikije zijyanye nibikoresho bikomoka ku nyamaswa.
